Why does my washing machine constantly drain water?
If the washing machine constantly drains water, you won’t be able to wash your clothes. The machine will not even start the cycle - all the water taken from the water supply will be immediately pumped into the sewer. This behaviour of the washing machine will not lead to anything good: the laundry remains dirty, the powder is wasted, and the drain pump wears out. You cannot ignore the continuous draining, otherwise the washing machine may break down. It’s better to figure out why the pump doesn’t stop and how to fix the problem.
Is the pump broken?
The continuous collection of water followed by drainage is an alarming “symptom”. However, the problem is unlikely to be in the pump itself; on the contrary, it works properly, pumping out excess liquid from the tank. More often, other problems with the drain and fill systems lead to “uncontrolled circulation.” We are talking about the following malfunctions:
- Incorrect connection of the washing machine to the sewer,
- Blockage or sudden decrease in pressure in the public sewer system,
- Fill valve failure,
- Failure of the pressure switch,
- Control module failure.
If the machine has stopped retaining water, then inspection and repair cannot be delayed. Continuing to use the washing machine is pointless, costly and dangerous. Firstly, the linen is not properly washed. Secondly, housing and communal services bills will increase significantly, and the equipment will work for wear and tear, which can lead to the breakdown of key components. Thirdly, there is a risk of flooding of the premises with all that it entails. It’s better not to take risks and immediately start searching for the cause of the failure.
Irregularities when connecting to the drainpipe.
To identify the source of the failure, you need to sequentially check all possible problems, moving from simple to complex. The first one in line is the drain hose. It often becomes the cause of “self-draining” due to incorrect connection or careless operation. The condition of the sleeve is assessed by inspection or test washing.
Visual inspection. According to the instructions, the drainage hose should be located above the level of the bottom of the washing machine tank. As a rule, we are talking about 50-80 cm from the floor. If the hose is positioned too low, the liquid will begin to flow by gravity into the sewer system without remaining in the machine. As a result, the drum will not have time to fill, the pressure switch will detect insufficient volume and will not give the board a command to stop filling. This “cycle” can continue indefinitely.
Test wash. When it is difficult to visually assess the height of the hose, it is recommended to run a test cycle. If, when filling, the drain immediately begins, then the problem is in the sleeve. You should deploy the equipment and adjust the corrugation.
The drainage hose is adjusted using a plastic loop. It comes complete with the washing machine and clings to the body in a certain place. Afterwards all that remains is to pass the corrugation through it. Is the drain hose connected correctly? Then we continue the diagnosis.
The sewerage system is not functioning.
Sometimes the problem is in the central sewer system. More precisely, a blockage occurs or the pressure drops sharply. The latter happens when several residents of the house simultaneously press the drain - the riser overflows, the readings drop, and the liquid from the washer tank is pushed into a common pipe. As a result, the machine empties ahead of time.
You can check whether the sewer system is involved with a simple test. The algorithm for what to do is as follows:
- Open any other tap in the apartment,
- Evaluate the drainage of collected water (there will be delays in drainage in all rooms).
If there are problems with drainage, then it is necessary to clean the sewer. You can cope with the task either on your own, by pouring special cleaning agents into the riser, or with the help of mechanics. In any case, you will have to wait - the procedure will take a lot of time. In order not to stop the started wash, just unhook the inlet hose from the pipe and lower it into the sink or toilet. The main thing is to thoroughly clean the plumbing fixtures from soap scum and dirt.
The sensor cannot detect the water level.
The cause of sudden drainage is often the pressure switch. It is he who is “responsible” for filling the tank, signaling to the control module that the specified volume has been reached and filling has stopped. If it breaks down, the sensor does not function correctly and does not see that the maximum level has been reached. As a result, the washing machine’s safety system is triggered - an emergency “self-draining” starts. Thus, the machine insures the equipment against leakage. The pressure switch breaks for the following reasons:
- Oxidation of contacts,
- Short circuit in the supplied wires,
- Violation of the tightness of the housing,
- Damaged or clogged pressure hose.
The first step is to check the pressure switch for serviceability and integrity. We turn off the power to the equipment, unscrew the top cover and find the level sensor. Loosen the retaining bolts and carefully inspect the device. What to do next depends on the situation: the oxidized contacts are cleaned, the blockage is cleared, and the damaged tube is replaced. Replacing the pressure switch is simple:
- Disconnect the machine from communications,
- Buy a new sensor,
- Remove the old pressure switch,
- Fix the new one on the seat,
- Tighten the screws and connect the wiring.
After replacement, we check the quality of the repair: turn on the machine to the communications, start a quick wash and monitor the behaviour of the washing machine. If after filling the water remains in the tank, then the problem is solved - the draining is stopped.
Fill valve open
The washer will constantly drain water even if there are problems with the inlet valve. The logic is simple: if the machine takes in too much water, the pressure switch will signal an overflow, and the board will give the pump a command to drain. You can stop “self-draining” by adjusting the filling system. Typically, the valve mechanism needs to be repaired or replaced.
You can deal with the inlet valve at home. Do-it-yourself repairs take place in several steps:
- Buy a similar valve and removable clamps for fixation,
- Disconnect the machine from communications,
- Remove the top cover if the machine is front-loading, or the side wall of the “vertical” machine,
- Find the valve installed at the connection point of the inlet hose,
- Free the device from connected wiring and pipes,
- Unscrew the fasteners, remove the clamps,
- Turn the valve and remove it from the body,
- Install a new device.
The new valve is fixed with clamps, after which the pipes and wires are connected. The quality of the repair is checked by a test wash.
It's all about the control board.
It’s worse when the reason for the incessant draining lies in the control board. In simple words, the module “freezes” and gives the wrong command to the pump. In this case, the diagnostic system should record and display the corresponding error code. There is no need to sound the alarm right away: it is first recommended to reboot the machine and start the cycle again. If the pump turns on again during filling, then contact the service center. Testing and repairing an electronic unit at home is too risky - one careless movement can lead to the “fatal outcome” of the equipment.
If the washer constantly drains water without retaining it in the tank, then you need to act. Uncontrolled drainage is a dangerous “symptom” that, without intervention and repair, will lead to serious equipment failure.
