Top loading washing machine lid won't open
The old verticals were equipped with the simplest top covers, without a locking device. In fact, this approach is quite reasonable - after all, the water will not overflow, and things are securely closed with the drum flaps. Now manufacturers have decided to improve this type of machine and are now installing locking locks. This innovation causes a lot of problems for users, because sometimes the lock does not work automatically. What to do if the lid of a top-loading machine does not open? How to replace a broken lock? Let's look into the nuances.
How to open the machine?
The locks on the vertical ones are much simpler than those on the front ones. The blocker only works when the washing machine is energized. Without current supply, the mechanism cannot jam; it will open automatically.
After unplugging the cord from the outlet, wait a few minutes. The locking plates will cool down and the machine will open. This will allow you to gain access to the inner flaps of the drum. When you manage to unlock the lock, it is better to immediately remove it and check it. If this is not the first time the lid is stuck, and an error code is displayed on the display, there is no need to take the situation further. It is much easier to buy and install a new blocker.
We remove, check and change the lock.
All upcoming work can be done with your own hands, without the help of a specialist. What to do first? It is worth preparing the tools that may be required. This is a set of screwdrivers, a wrench and a thin spatula. After that, take care of the machine: turn off the power and disconnect it from communications. The further algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- Unscrew the screws located on the back wall of the washing machine,
- Remove the bolts from the pair of hinge brackets on the rear panel of the machine,
- Unscrew the screw from the hatch hiding the wires,
- Remove the top bolts,
- Disconnect the control panel from the case.
Removing the upper instrument panel is a separate process. It will be necessary:
- Move the panel forward slightly, about one and a half centimetres,
- From this position, raise the “tidy” by 6-7 millimetres,
- Push the raised panel back 6 mm and release it from the brackets,
- Lean the “tidy” on the wall - this way it will not interfere with the work process.
After this, you can begin to dismantle the blocking device. Using a wrench, remove the two screws to secure the lock to the top panel. Deal with the latches and disconnect the UBL from the “tidy”. Now the blocker will only hang on the wires that “go” inside the console. The further algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- Using a slotted screwdriver, release the wiring harness from the clamps,
- Using the same tool, use the same tool to pick up the white wiring clip located on the back of the dashboard,
- Release this clamp, but do not remove it completely and do not remove the wire harness,
- Carefully place the control panel on the lid of the washing machine,
- Go around the machine to have access to the back of the panel,
- Unscrew a couple of bolts located on top of the rear part of the “tidy”,
- Lightly press the control panel from the front, inserting a thin spatula under the right corner of the “tidy” (this will allow you to deal with the mounting clip),
- Repeat the steps described in the previous paragraph from the left corner of the control panel. This will help remove the clamps and free the console,
- Place the console on the lid of the washing machine,
- Unhook the UBL wires from the dashboard. To do this, press the “tab” and remove the connector from the control board socket,
- Slide the lock,
- Insert the UBL wires into the hole on the back of the dashboard, in the place where you left the white plastic clip,
- Remove the tape from the lid, lift it,
- Take out the hatch blocker - now nothing will interfere with dismantling.
What to do next? Experts recommend checking the UBL with a multimeter. The tester is switched to resistance measurement mode, the probes are applied to the lock contacts. The blocker will probably work and there will be no need to change it. If the values detected by the ohmmeter correspond to the standard values, carefully inspect the wiring. There may be a defect on some cable - the problem will have to be fixed.
When the multimeter detects that the locking device is faulty, you will have to replace the part. The lock must be purchased for a specific model of washing machine. Installation is performed in reverse order.
