The washing machine knocks out the machine or plugs

It often happens that a washing machine knocks out plugs or an RCD when it is plugged into the network or during operation. In this case, the machine itself naturally turns off, without finishing or not having time to start the wash, and at the same time the electricity in the whole house. Sometimes the situation is simpler: there is light in the house, but the washing machine and other household appliances in the kitchen and bathroom do not turn on. Why is this happening and what to do? We will answer these and other questions within the framework of this article.

What caused the breakdown?

In such a situation, some owners or housewives, without thinking too much, go to the electrical panel, turn on the toggle switch of the machine and continue to wash as if nothing had happened. If an overload occurs in the electrical network, such a temporary solution to the problem is fundamentally wrong and even dangerous, because the next overload can destroy your equipment. Experts strongly recommend immediately starting to look for the cause of the traffic jams or machine being knocked out, or delegating these actions to a professional.

There are several typical reasons for the plugs being knocked out after turning on the washing machine. We considered it necessary to consider them in order to facilitate the task of troubleshooting. This information will be useful to those who decide to independently search for and eliminate the cause of a sudden power outage. So, typical reasons for knocking out an RCD.

An inappropriate automatic circuit breaker or RCD has been installed.

• The wiring is incorrect or simply old.
• Closes the power cord of the washing machine.
• The socket is faulty.
• The surge protector is faulty, the buttons are shorted (especially the on/off button).
• The control unit of the washing machine is faulty.
• The terminals are burnt or the wiring is frayed.
• The heating element or motor is faulty.

Problems with electrical communications

The machine creates a fairly large load on the network when turned on and in operation, so to connect it it is necessary to use a separate network protected by RCDs and automatic circuit breakers. There are also special requirements for the wiring of such a network. It is necessary to use a 3x2.5 VVG cable, and it does not matter which machine needs to be connected with or without a drying function.

In fact, an automatic washing machine can be connected in any way: into a common outlet with all kitchen electrical appliances, through an extension cord, and sometimes even through an adapter. This leads to overheating and damage to the electrical wiring, network cord and melting of the socket housing, after which the protection is triggered and the network is de-energized. In some cases, it is not difficult to identify a problem with electrical communications; you can see darkened wiring, a melted socket, and you can smell burnt insulation and plastic.

 

To prevent the problem from recurring, you must:

• lay a separate network that powers the washing machine according to the circuits indicated below or according to adequate alternative circuits,
• use sockets with a moisture-proof casing,
• use devices protecting the network.

The integrity of the power cord can be checked using a multimeter. To do this, you need to dismantle the bottom panel of the washing machine, unscrew the fixing bolts and remove the power cable. After this, you can ring the wire cores to determine the breakdown. Perhaps the wire is fine, but the terminals are burnt, in which case they need to be replaced.

Problems with the surge protector and button contacts

If you have tested the power cord and are convinced that it is working properly, then the problem may be with the power filter. A device called a surge protector is a part to which the power cord is connected. In certain cases, manufacturers of automatic washing machines combine the power cord with the “barrel” of the power filter, so you have to change two elements at once. The filter is a non-repairable part, so if you test it with a multimeter and visually inspect it and find a malfunction, you need to prepare to replace this element.

In rare cases, the machine kicks out due to a weak connection between the contacts of the wire and the surge protector. This causes the contacts of both the filter itself and the wire to burn. In this case, there is no need to try to clean the contacts; they need to be replaced along with the surge protector, otherwise this may cause new interruptions and overloads in the network.

An RCD can also trip due to faulty buttons or control panel buttons. Why is this happening? The main problem is that the contacts of the buttons wear out over time; when you press a faulty button, the contact breaks through and this causes an overload. What should be done?

• Disassemble the washing machine by removing the control unit.
• Use a maltimeter to ring the contacts of the on/off button of the washing machine.
• Use a multimeter to test the contacts of other buttons and the wires going to them.

Problems with the control unit, wiring and terminals

If no malfunctions of the buttons have been identified, then we begin the painstaking work of checking all contacts, wiring, terminals and sensors. Since we have already disassembled the control unit, we should start with it. Ring all the wiring one by one, starting with the most suspicious elements that have traces of soot, abrasions, and the like.

The problem may not be in the control unit. Use a multimeter to test the contacts and wires going to the engine, drain pump, heating element and other units and their sensors. Along the way, you need to change all the burnt elements, even if they work, because you don’t want to disassemble the washing machine again because of one wiring.

Problems with the heating element or motor

The RCD or plugs may be knocked out due to a faulty heating element of the washing machine. Heating elements break quite often, and the reason for this is poor-quality water or related malfunctions of the machine. If your plumbing system has hard water, then scale will eventually settle in a thick layer on the heating element, causing it to fail.

 

The heating element can also break due to a faulty drain pump. If the drain pump does not turn off, constantly pumping water out of the tank, the machine will also constantly pour cold water into the tank, obeying the signals of the pressure switch (water level sensor). Accordingly, the temperature sensor will constantly send a signal that the water in the tank is not warm enough and the heating element will be on all the time while the wash is in progress, quickly exhausting its resource. To check and repair the heating element, do the following.

• Take a multimeter and set the toggle switch to 200.
• Open the back (or front, depending on the model) wall of the washing machine by unscrewing several fasteners.
• At the bottom of the tank body, you can see two large contacts - this is the heating element.
• We install the multimeter sensors on the contacts of the heating element and look at the display, a value of about 30 Ohms + - 15 Ohms should appear.
• If the value is significantly greater or less, you need to change the heating element.
• It is held in place by two fastening elements located at the base of the device under the contacts; they need to be unscrewed and the heating element will be removed.

The reason for knocking out the RCD or plugs may also lie in a faulty washing machine motor. It is better not to carry out engine repairs and checks yourself. This is a rather expensive unit, which is very expensive to change, so entrust this matter to a professional - you can’t go wrong.

In conclusion, we note that there can be many reasons for knocking out an RCD or plugs with a washing machine, because an automatic machine is a rather complex device, stuffed with electricity and electronics, which needs to be checked periodically. You need to look for the cause of the problem immediately, because if you don’t do this, you may lose your “home assistant.”