The drain pump in the washing machine is constantly running

If the pump operates constantly during the cycle, this will not lead to anything good. Firstly, the pump will “overwork” and wear out faster. Secondly, the quality of washing will decrease - water with detergent will go down the drain at the beginning of the cycle. The pump should only be started when it is necessary to pump out water, so its incessant “buzzing” is not normal. Let us figure out what to do if the drain pump is constantly running in the washing machine. What could be the cause of the malfunction?

We are looking for the cause of the problem.

Having noticed that the washing machine does not retain water in the tank, it is better to immediately begin diagnosing the equipment. There can be various reasons for the pump not turning off: from a broken pressure switch to burnt-out electronics. Most often, the machine loses control over the water level due to:

violations committed during the installation of the drainage hose and connecting it to the sewer,

• Clogging of a common house sewer pipe,
• Breakdown of the wastewater start-up valve,
• Failure of the level sensor,
• Electronics failure.

It is better to eliminate the cause of the malfunction in the early stages. If you continue to use the washing machine with this problem, you run the risk of not only getting dirty clothes coming out of the drum, but also completely breaking your “home assistant.”

Was it connected to the sewer correctly?

Diagnostics should begin from simple to complex. The most harmless reason is improper installation of the drain hose. Sometimes, when installing the machine themselves, users do not read the instructions and connect the corrugation incorrectly. This causes water to drain from the tank by gravity.

Check whether the drain hose is connected correctly. It must be fixed above the bottom of the machine tank. In all washing machine models, this mark is located half a meter from the floor level. If the requirement is met, the liquid will not spontaneously leak out of the system. If you connect the drain hose incorrectly, the water will flow out by gravity. In this case, the pressure switch will constantly record the low level of filling of the tank and give a signal to refill. The process can be repeated ad infinitum.

You can also check the drain hose by running a quick wash with an empty drum. Play a short program and watch the machine. If the water, as soon as it enters, begins to flow out of the “centrifuge,” you will still have to move the machine away from the wall and inspect the drain corrugation. If you are sure that the drain hose is connected correctly, test the machine further. After the corrugation, experts advise checking the sewer pipe.

Blockage in the drainage system

The reason for the involuntary emptying of the washing machine tank may be a clogged sewer pipe. If the riser overflows, the pressure in the system decreases and water is pushed out of the washer. It is easy to confirm or refute a guess. It is necessary to open the tap in the bathroom or kitchen and observe how quickly the water drains. If the common house drain is clogged, then there will be difficulties with draining in any room.

Cleaning the sewer pipe will help solve the problem. You can do the work yourself, but it is better to seek the help of plumbers. If, after calling a specialist, you must wait a couple of days for their arrival, simply disconnect the drain hose from the communications and lower its end into the bathtub. Then the machine can be used, but such a measure is only temporary.

The pressure switch burned out.

The reason that the pump does not turn off may be a broken pressure switch. The sensor monitors the fullness of the tank and transmits signals to the control module about the amount of water in the system. Based on the information received, the “brain” pauses the dialing and starts draining.

In this situation, the drain pump will run constantly to protect the electronics from leaking. The pressure switch may not function correctly for various reasons. Among them:

• Oxidation of sensor contacts,
• Short circuit of wires,
• Membrane depressurization,
• Damaged or clogged pressure tube.

You can diagnose the pressure switch at home. The part is located at the top of the machine; to find it, you will have to remove the cover of the machine. Before you start disassembling the washing machine, be sure to turn it off. Having found the sensor, inspect its contacts.

If it is noticeable to the naked eye that the contacts are oxidized, clean them with a knife blade. Next, disconnect the pressure switch tube and blow into it - sometimes this helps restore the element’s functionality. If you find that the tube or wiring is damaged, completely replace the sensor. You need to buy a new pressure switch using the serial number of the “home assistant.” You should not start repairing an old sensor, it is impractical. You can do the replacement yourself. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• De-energize the SMA, close the shut-off valve,
• Unscrew a couple of bolts holding the top panel of the machine,
• Remove the washer cover,
• Disconnect the tube from the broken pressure switch,
• Unclench the terminals, unscrew the two bolts securing the part,
• Remove the old pressure switch,
• Put the new sensor in place, secure it with self-tapping screws,
• Connect the wiring through the terminals,
• Reconnect the pressure switch tube,
• Assemble the body of the automatic machine.

Once the repair is complete, run a test cycle. If the tank is full and the pump does not immediately pump out water, then the problem is solved. Otherwise, you will have to “dig” further into the machine.

Inlet valve constantly open

The next step is to check if there are any problems with the fill. When the inlet solenoid valve is faulty, water continuously flows into the washer, so the pump must constantly pump out excess liquid. Only replacing the element will help fix the problem.

You can remove the intake valve and completely disassemble it. Check the resistance of the coils, the integrity of the membrane and springs. But it is much safer to buy and install a new spare part. The inlet valve should be selected based on the model and serial number of the machine. It is also worth buying removable clamps in advance. The algorithm of actions when replacing an element will be as follows:

• Turn off the power to the washing machine,
• Close the shut-off valve,
• Remove the top cover of the case (if the “front” is being repaired) or the side wall (in the case of the “vertical”),
• Find the valve, it is located at the connection point of the inlet hose,
• Unhook the pipes and supply wires from the element,
• Unscrew the screws holding the valve,
• Slightly rotate the part and remove it from the housing,
• Install a new valve, secure with bolts and clamps,
• Connect the wiring and pipes to the element.

Next should be a test wash. Watch how the machine completes the “idle” cycle. If replacing the intake valve does not help, the electronics may be to blame.

The firmware has crashed, or the triac has burned out.

Sometimes the drain pump does not turn off due to malfunctions of the control module. If restarting the washer does not help, you will have to diagnose the board. You should not delve into the “brain” of the machine yourself – it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

Repairing the control module requires certain knowledge and experience. Therefore, in order not to damage the machine even more, it is advisable to invite a specialist. It is impossible to ignore the problem with the pump, it is fraught with more serious damage to the equipment.