The washing machine pump is often called the heart by technician because it circulates water throughout the machine, like a blood supply. When performing such a task, the part takes on a colossal load, which often results in premature wear. As a result, the pump breaks down and the unit stops with a full tank. Drainage problems are resolved by diagnosing, replacing, or repairing the washing machine drain pump. The instructions and recommendations below will help you with your work.
The lack of complete drainage does not always mean that the pump is faulty. Problems with water circulation can also cause other drainage problems, for example, blockage, blockage, loose contacts. Therefore, there is no need to rush to disassemble the machine and remove the pump from the housing. It is better to try to diagnose and localize the breakdown.
Experts recommend following the following plan during the initial diagnosis of the drain system:
Now more details. First, it is recommended not to stop the running cycle, but to wait for the water to fill or the next drain. Go to the washing machine and listen during rinsing or spinning, the pump operates evenly and makes moderate noise, gradually filling or emptying the drum. If the pump hums, but the tank remains the same, or no sounds are heard from the machine, the “heart” is not in working condition.
Now more details. First, it is recommended not to stop the running cycle, but to wait for the water to fill or the next drain. Go to the washing machine and listen during rinsing or spinning, the pump operates evenly and makes moderate noise, gradually filling or emptying the drum. If the pump hums, but the tank remains the same, or no sounds are heard from the machine, the “heart” is not in working condition.
Next, we try to find out the nature of the malfunction. First, we unsnap the technical hatch door, take out the garbage filter and clean it of hair and dirt. At the same time, we inspect the hole freed from the spiral. It is possible that a bra wire or key got into it.
Next in line is the drain hose. A simple blockage or too thick a layer of scale on the walls can lead to stagnation of water. To check your guess, unhook the “sleeve” from the sewer and the body, rinse it under the tap or soak it in a vinegar solution. Then we return the rubber to its place and start the test cycle. If the pump hums again and cannot cope with the load, then we continue the diagnostics we started.
A blocked impeller also prevents complete drainage. A key forgotten in your pocket or a bone that has jumped out of your bra can jam the pump blades and stop the washing machine from working. Fortunately, it is not difficult to detect and fix a malfunction of this type.
In most cases, repairs can be made without disassembling the washing machine. It is enough to unscrew the drain filter and illuminate its seat with a flashlight. At the end of the “tunnel” you will see the pump impeller - a plastic wheel with blades. Insert your fingers into the hole and try to get it moving.
When the inspection does not produce results - the impeller rotates freely or stands still, but without visible interference - you will have to disassemble the washing machine and remove the pump. For further diagnostics, you need to pick up the pump.
To inspect and, if necessary, repair the pump of a Samsung machine with your own hands, you will first have to take it out. This is difficult to do on most models. The difficulty is that to remove the part you need to disassemble the entire end of the machine. If schematically, then the procedure is as follows.
After removing the front panel, the entire internal structure of the Samsung machine is revealed. All that remains is to find the pump, unscrew the bolts holding it, unhook the latches, loosen all the clamps on the connected pipes and separate the pump from the volute. Now we place the “heart” on a dry, flat surface and begin the repair.
The washing pump has a plain design, so repairing it is easy and inexpensive. First, the removed part must be inspected for obvious damage - chips and burn marks will indicate the cause of the malfunction. If there are signs of burnout or splitting, you will have to replace the device with a new one.
Often, it is not a matter of damage to the pump itself, but a failure of the impeller. As a rule, the wheel falls off the axle, which is why the pump cannot function normally. The solution to the problem is to dismantle the broken part and install a working analogue in its place.
You should also pay attention to the rubber gaskets. They often deteriorate and show signs of wear and tear. The next in line are the moving parts of the pump and the pulley, which, if damaged, are replaced with new ones. If you change all suspicious parts and do not skimp on original spare parts, the repair will go smoothly and efficiently. The main thing is to remember that there is a lot of water left inside the pump and you should stock up on rags and a basin.
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