How to remove the drum from the washing machine?

The need to remove the drum from the washing machine may arise due to a number of breakdowns. For example, wear of the bearing unit or deformation of the crosspiece. To remove the tank, you will have to almost completely disassemble the machine. We will tell you how to do it yourself, at home.

What will be needed to carry out repairs?

To remove the drum from the washing machine, you will first have to take out the tank. You will need to disassemble the body of the washing machine, removing the top, front and back panels. After that, the engine, heating element, drain pump and other internal elements are removed from the machine.

The following tools will be useful during the work:

• Phillips and minus screwdrivers,
• Set of keys,
• Screwdriver,
• Small hammer,
• Punch,
• Hacksaw for metal or other tool for cutting (if the tank of your automatic machine is non-separable).

It is also worth having a marker and WD-40 aerosol on hand. The spray will help remove "stuck" fasteners. It is advisable to have a camera and take pictures of the progress of the work - the pictures will help you avoid mistakes when assembling the washing machine later. Having prepared everything you need, you can begin the repair.

We take the tank out of the SM housing

Before disassembling the washing machine, it is advisable to study the instructions for the machine, namely, to understand the location of the internal parts. If you understand where, for example, the motor, pressure switch and other elements are located, then dismantling the units will be easier.

After disconnecting the machine from the power supply, move the washing machine to the middle of the room. Next, disconnect the device from the water supply and sewerage. Then you need to:

• Remove the top cover of the washing machine,
• Remove the powder tray,
• Unscrew the screws securing the control panel,
• Remove the instrument panel, disconnecting the wires supplying it,
• Remove the lower decorative panel,
• Open the washing machine hatch and remove the clamps securing the drum cuff,
• Remove the sealing cuff,
• Unscrew the screws securing the UBL and remove the blocker,
• Remove the bolts along the perimeter of the front wall of the case, remove the panel,
• Remove the rear panel of the machine,
• Reset the drive belt,
• Disconnect all elements connected to the tank: sensors, hoses, engine, pulley,
• Having dealt with the shock-absorbing springs, remove the tank from the housing.

Afterwards, the tank is placed on a flat horizontal surface. Now your task is to split the plastic container in half. We will tell you how to do this.

We split the plastic tank in half and remove the drum

An important nuance is what kind of tank your washing machine is equipped with, detachable or monolithic. In the first case, there will be no difficulties in cutting the tank in half. It will be enough to just remove the fastening screws, release the latches, and the tank will fall apart into two parts.

It is more difficult if the tank of your automatic washing machine is non-separable. In this case, the container will have to be sawed. This can be done using the following tools:

• Hacksaw for metal,
• Renovator,
• Bulgarian,
• Cut-off saw.

First, you need to mark the cutting line. Take a marker and draw a line. Then arm yourself with the tool you have. Be sure to put on safety glasses so that flying chips do not get into your eyes during work. A renovator and a cutting machine cut thinner than a grinder, so it is advisable to use this equipment.

Another advantage of the cutting machine is the ability to cut with bends. Then it will be easy to bypass important structural elements on the tank. For example, this concerns the stiffening ribs.

After sawing the tank, proceed further. Remove the upper "empty" part, and place boards on both sides under the lower part. Remove the pulley.

Then apply WD-40 to the pulley mounting area. Wait 10-20 minutes for the compound to take effect. Take a punch and a small hammer, start tapping on the center so that the drum flies out of the plastic container.

This completes the drum extraction process. Now you can begin troubleshooting: replacing bearings, seals, or crosspieces. Once you've completed the repair, you'll have to reassemble the structure.

Install the drum back into the lower half of the tank. Reattach the pulley. To fasten the two halves of the plastic container, you will need a heat gun and a soldering iron.

Place the top part of the tank on the bottom and "grab" the rims with a soldering iron in four or five places. This is necessary so that the sawed-off half does not "walk". After this, gradually fasten the container, heating 2 cm of plastic with a hair dryer and smoothing the already softened area with a soldering iron.

Experts recommend additionally fastening the halves of the tank with bolts, at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other, for greater reliability. If you do not want to solder, you can use a special silicone sealant. In this case, you will need to:

• Clean up the cut areas on both halves of the tank,
• Apply heat-resistant sealant around the circumference,
• Place the parts of the tank on top of each other,
• Place a weight on top and wait until the mixture dries completely.

Having connected the halves of the plastic container, you can begin assembling the automatic washing machine. It is done by analogy, in reverse order. First, the tank is installed, pipes and parts are connected to it, the main elements are returned to their place: the motor, pump, heating element, pressure switch, etc. It is better to focus on the previously taken pictures in order to avoid mistakes.

Next, you need to activate the test cycle. Watch the machine work. There should be no extraneous noises or leaks. If everything is OK, you can start a regular wash with the laundry already in the drum.