How to remove the control panel on a washing machine

Repairing the control board yourself is too risky, and going to a service center for diagnostics is expensive and useless - the technician will only see the breakdown and recommend a replacement. Therefore, it is cheaper to immediately remove the control panel on the washing machine and install a new one in its place. Especially if the equipment has been in use for a long time, and the controller looks burnt out even at a cursory inspection. But replacing the board is also a difficult task, and the slightest mistake can lead to a breakdown of the new part. For the installation to be successful, it is recommended to follow the specified instructions.

How to find and remove the panel?

The control panel takes up quite a lot of space on the washing machine, so there will be no problems finding it. As a rule, on front machines, the controller is located behind the front dashboard, and on vertical ones - on top. The exact location of the module is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. To remove the panel yourself, you must first dismantle the top cover of the washing machine and then release the module itself from the fasteners. The sequence is as follows:

• De-energize the machine,
• Disconnect the equipment from the water supply,
• Unscrew the two screws holding the top cover (they are located on the back panel),
• Slide the cover and, lifting it, press the locking latches,
• Unhook the powder receptacle (pull it all the way and press the central button),
• Loosen the bolts “hidden” behind the tray,
• Unscrew the screws holding the dashboard around its perimeter (some models of washing machines have plastic latches instead),
• Detach the instrument panel from the body,
• Take a photo of the location of the contacts on the block,
• Disconnect the connected wiring,
• Unscrew the screws holding the control module,
• Get the board.

It is worth understanding that at home the board is dismantled only after the warranty period has expired. After removing the module, it is recommended to carefully inspect the contacts and microcircuits: in case of serious breakdowns, the damage is clearly visible. Thus, scorch marks, dark spots, rust, chips, traces of burning coils and capacitors will be visible on the surface.

The new board is installed in the reverse order. The most difficult part is connecting the wires in the original order. After completing the replacement, it is necessary to test the equipment by running an empty wash.

Is it necessary to remove the panel?

Replacing the control board is not difficult. The difficulty lies in another point - sometimes the problem lies in a completely different place of the washing machine. Thus, another element of the system, the UBL or the pump, creating the appearance of damage to the electronics, may break down. As a result, the new module does not eliminate the malfunction, money is thrown to the wind, and the machine will still need repair.

In order not to blame the board in vain, it is necessary to diagnose the breakdown that has appeared. Ideally, with any malfunction, the machine should be comprehensively checked, leaving the control module for the last moment. Only if other units and mechanisms are operational, you can remove the dashboard and inspect the electronics.

The second option is to suspect problems with the board by characteristic "symptoms". A washing machine with a broken control board changes its "behaviour" dramatically, revealing the electronic nature of the cause of the failure. You just need to recognize the signals and identify them.

• The washing machine does not switch to spinning, and after the rinse cycle is complete, the control panel freezes – it does not respond to user commands and does not display an error code.
• The LEDs on the dashboard are flashing chaotically. Despite the current coming to the board, it is impossible to start the program - the machine does not respond to pressing the buttons.
• After starting the cycle, the machine does not fill with water or immediately starts draining. As a result, the equipment freezes "tightly": all that remains is to reboot the system. At the same time, after rebooting, the machine washes in the normal mode.
• Regardless of the program type, the machine washes for 3-4 hours without stopping, without switching to rinsing and spinning. The drain pump does not start, and the system simply freezes over time.
• After connecting the machine to the network, it is not possible to set the washing mode: the system freezes and immediately switches off.
• The program starts, information about the mode is displayed on the screen, the timer starts counting down, but the washing machine is "silent". No water is poured, the drum does not rotate - nothing happens.
• The engine works strangely: it changes speed abruptly when it is not required by the program. The opposite option is also possible, in which the drum rotates in one direction for a long time.
• There are problems with heating: the heating element sometimes overheats the water, sometimes leaves it cold. The thermistor readings and program settings do not matter in this case - everything happens in a chaotic manner.

It is worth understanding that the listed signs only hint at a possible malfunction of the module. However, such failures can also be caused by malfunctions of other elements and mechanisms of the washing machine. To make sure that the control board is broken, it is recommended to first run the system auto test, and then do manual diagnostics of the machine.

Launching the auto test occurs in different ways - it all depends on the brand and model of the washing machine. It is enough to carefully study the relevant section of the instructions and follow the algorithm given in it. For example, on the Ardo washing machine, auto testing is activated as follows:

• Plug the washing machine into the power supply,
• Rotate the programmer to a strictly vertical position so that the arrow points downwards,
• Set the temperature to zero,
• Make sure the drum is empty (there is no water or things in it);
• Close the hatch door,
• Simultaneously press all the buttons on the washing machine’s dashboard (this will activate the auto test),
• Wait until the system mode is completed,
• Look at the display - it will show an error code (the combination decoding is given in the factory instructions).

Not all washing machines have an auto test mode. Modern machines instead have a built-in diagnostic system that works constantly. If a malfunction occurs, the self-diagnosis records the failure in automatic mode and displays the corresponding error code on the display. It's a different matter if the machine is equipped with an asynchronous motor. Self-testing is impossible on such equipment - only a "manual" check performed by the user.

It is recommended to check the auto test result during manual diagnostics. It is advisable to sequentially ring all suspicious units and system elements with multi meters, and lastly, the board itself. Sequential checking will take a lot of time, but you can be 100% sure of the cause of the malfunction.