Electrolux washing machine does not wash
No one is safe from sudden stoppage of household appliances. If suddenly the Electrolux washing machine does not wash after filling with water, then there is no need to panic and immediately call a specialist. You can determine the nature of the breakdown and fix it yourself. You just need to determine the range of typical faults, “immerse yourself” in the device’s design and remember safety precautions. We suggest you figure out how and in what sequence you need to act.
Frequent culprits of such breakdowns
If the washing machine obediently took in water, but never started washing, then it is too early to write off the equipment. In most cases, we are talking about minor malfunctions that can be easily dealt with at home. But first you will have to carry out diagnostics and more accurately determine the scale of the problem.
The following malfunctions can cause the machine to stop after successful water intake:
- A broken drive belt (for Electrolux models with a belt drive).
- A failed electric motor (suspected windings, lamellas, brushes, capacitor, temperature sensor or tachogenerator).
- Non-working heating element (when selecting a high-temperature cycle, the machine cannot heat the water and fails).
- Broken control board (or another electronic element).
The display can help clarify the cause of the failure. The self-diagnosis system displays an error code corresponding to the breakdown that occurred. It is enough to remember the combination and decipher it according to the instructions.
Without a display, you will have to look for the problem manually. It is necessary to check each possible “sore spot” one by one. It is better to start with a simple and communal problem – a broken drive belt and leave the complex and rarely broken control board for “dessert”. More precisely, after unsuccessful searches with suspicions about the control module, you should contact a service center. Doing electronics, yourself is very risky.
Drive element
The inspection begins with the drive belt. A flying rubber band often causes the machine to draw water in normal mode but cannot spin the drum. It is simple: the engine speed is not transmitted to the drum shaft due to a broken drive. This happens when equipment is transported incorrectly, installed incorrectly, or repaired untimely.
Checking the serviceability of the drive is easy: just look at the belt. On Electrolux with horizontal loading, it is located at the back, and on “verticals” it is on the side. In any case, remove the panel hiding the pulley by unscrewing the bolts and inspect the machine.
It is impossible not to notice a loose rubber band. It will hang on a pulley or lie on the bottom. But you cannot immediately return the belt to its place. First, the rim must be carefully inspected. The rubber may be torn, cracked, or stretched. In this case, it is better to replace it with a new and intact one.
The belt is returned to the pulley as follows:
- Straighten the elastic band,
- Put it on the small wheel of the pulley,
- Pulling it by hand, we hook the rim onto the large wheel,
- At the same time, we turn the pulley counterclockwise until the elastic fits into the provided grooves.
If the belt breaks once, you can do without replacing it. If the rubber band falls off often, then it is better not to delay the procedure and immediately purchase a new one, especially since the rim is cheap. It is important to run a test wash after the manipulations to check the functionality of the Electrolux.
Engine test
The machine stops after filling with water and when the electric motor is broken. Most often, the brakes are to blame for the brushes, which wear out and fail after prolonged use. Asynchronous engines often refuse to accelerate when the starting capacitor is faulty. Also, the motors do not start when overheated, when several high-temperature cycles are turned on in a row. In the latter case, it is important to give the machine a “rest” for 50-60 minutes.
In most cases, the motor is slowed down by electric brushes, which need to be changed regularly. The procedure is simple and quick: unscrew the back panel, free the motor from the wires and retaining bolts, remove the part and place it on the table. Then we find two cases on the body, pry them off with a slotted screwdriver and press out the provided latches. Next, we install new rods and secure them to the engine. Do not forget to clean off the graphite dust from the metal at the “finish” and run a test cycle.
Control board element burnt out.
If water is successfully collected, the cycle does not begin if the control board is not able to give a signal to start the program. In simple words, the electronics “flyed” - both the module itself and its individual triac, track, or wire. In this case, carrying out comprehensive diagnostics and repairing a faulty element is extremely difficult and risky. Let us remind you that it is better to immediately contact the service center with such suspicions.
But self-repair of electronics is theoretically possible. First, it is important to consistently check the electrical system: inspect all conductors, terminals, and contacts. There may be a current leakage, insulation break, disconnection, or oxidation somewhere. It will be necessary to clean the phases and tighten the clamps.
Another reason is a breakdown of the electronic unit. It is the board that is responsible for turning on the cycle and coordinating the entire operation of the machine. So, after filling the tank, the pressure switch should be activated, sending a signal to the module that the set is complete and ready for washing. If the track or triac corresponding to the sensor is faulty, then the information does not reach the recipient and the machine becomes silent and inactive.
The electronic unit is much more difficult to deal with. The control board is a panel with hundreds of contacts, microcircuits, and elements, which are impossible to understand without experience and equipment. It is better not to take risks, but to seek help from professionals.
