Candy washing machine will not open
If the washing machine does not open at the end of the cycle, do not immediately panic. Normally, the machine can remain closed for several minutes since the metal plate in the UBL design must cool down and unlock the mechanism. Then the electronic lock will be removed, all that remains is to press the handle and open the hatch. It is another matter when the wait for Candy to unlock reaches 10 minutes or more. In this case, it is useless to pull - you need to open the door forcibly and look for the problem.
How to delicately open a hatch?
With a full drum, you cannot diagnose and repair the machine. Before dealing with the cause of the failure, you need to empty the water tank and take out your clothes. The main thing is to make sure that the hatch remains locked for at least 10 minutes after washing - only after this time is it recommended to force open Candy.
Most often, the machine remains locked due to a full drum. For some reason, the water did not drain into the sewer and for safety reasons the system does not give a command to remove the electronic lock. In such a situation, it is necessary to empty the tank. The easiest way is to activate the Rinse, Spin or Drain program.
After the program ends, you should try to unlock the door again. If the blockage has not been removed and the drum remains full, then it is worth checking the functioning of the drain. First, we inspect the drain hose for any squeezing or blockage, and if necessary, release and clean the hose. Then we turn on any of the above modes again and look at the reaction of the washing machine.
Sometimes cleaning the drain does not help, and the system does not respond automatically to attempts to drain the water. In this case, you will have to empty the tank manually by unscrewing the garbage filter. The sequence is:
- De-energize the machine,
- Cover the surrounding area with oilcloth or rags,
- Find a basin to collect water,
- Pry open the technical hatch door and open access to the filter,
- Unscrew the nozzle,
- Drain the water from the machine.
The empty machine can be opened. We take a thin string, a knife or a flat screwdriver and proceed to the emergency opening of the machine. We apply the rope to the hole between the hatch and the body in the locking mechanism and carefully press it inward with the tip. We pull the inserted lace in both directions until a click is heard, which will indicate that the latch is activated. Then press the handle and open the laundry loading hatch in the usual way.
If the rope option does not help, we proceed differently. We disconnect the equipment from communications, remove the top cover and tilt the machine body back. The drum should “move away” from the front wall, after which you can stick your hand to the UBL, feel the holder tongue and move it. This will unlock the hatch.
What caused the problem?
Problems with door opening are not always related to the system's protective reaction to a full drum. The hatch may remain impregnable for other reasons. As a rule, problems with the lock on Candy occur due to a broken handle, faulty UBL and a failure in the control board.
Broken door handle. Careless opening of the hatch, constant slamming or childish pranks can damage the locking mechanism.
Faulty UBL. The electronic lock fails after long-term use, as the mechanical elements wear out and break over time.
Failed pressure switch. The level sensor has started to work incorrectly and is sending incorrect information to the board. For example, that the tank is full, even if it is empty.
Board failure. The most serious failure in which the system freezes and stops analysing incoming information and commands.
Sometimes the cause of stagnation lies in a non-functioning drain. It is possible that the internal pipe or garbage filter is clogged, the impeller is blocked, or the pump is broken. If you are unable to determine the nature of the problem yourself, you should contact a service center.
It is all about the castle.
Often, the Candy washing machine does not open due to a faulty UBL. It is not difficult to check the condition of the blocker yourself; the main thing is to remove it from the housing and test it with a multimeter. First, we do this:
- Disconnect the machine from the power supply,
- Open the previously open hatch,
- Bend the edge of the hatch cuff to the side, find the latch and loosen the outer clamp,
- Pull the seal to the left side, exposing the locking mechanism,
- Unscrew the two fasteners securing the blocker,
- Press out the additional latches and holders and unhook the UBL from the body.
Having taken out the device, you can begin diagnosing it. To check, you will need a multimeter configured to measure resistance and an electrical circuit of the blocker. Our task is to evaluate the performance of the thermoelement responsible for heating the plate:
- Turn on the tester,
- Apply the probes to the neutral contact and the phase of the blocker (the norm is any three-digit number),
- We rearrange the probes from phase to common contact (at “0” and “1” the UBL will need to be replaced, the remaining values are normal).
If the UBL is working properly, then we return it to its place and look for a problem in another place. If a breakdown of the blocker is detected, you will have to find an analogue and install it in place of the old device. The lock is installed in the reverse order: we hook up the wiring, fix it in the mounting socket and secure it with bolts. At the finish, straighten the cuff and tighten the clamp. Do not forget about the test cycle - you need to make sure the system is working.
