Atlant washing machine does not heat water

If the Atlant washing machine does not heat the water, then you will have to forget about quality washing. If there are problems with heating, the machine will not start a high-temperature program, or the time measured by the mode will “twist” things at only 20-40 degrees. Either way, the wash will be ineffective or disrupted. The situation can only be changed by repair. We suggest you figure out what and how to repair to restore the washer’s ability to heat up.

Let us designate the circle of faults.

The heating element is not always to blame for the lack of heating. Other problems also lead to problems with hot water; moreover, most often it is a matter of simple inattention. It is better not to rush into disassembling the machine, but to carry out a pre-repair check.

The pre-repair check begins with an inspection of the dashboard. You need to remember which mode was selected. Many basic washing programs do not involve heating the water. For example, when you press the “Delicate Wash,” “Sportswear,” “Wool,” “Silk”, “Curtains” buttons, the temperature is automatically set to 20-30 degrees.

If you have selected a “hot” program, then pay attention to the temperature indicators. On modern Atlant machines you can independently adjust the washing conditions by setting certain degrees. However, mechanical regulators periodically do not work, the washing machine does not “read” user settings and does not heat the water. It is better to play it safe, turn the selector again and restart the equipment. The machine has malfunctioned.

Finally, check if the heating is working. It is a mistake to think that cold laundry indicates a lack of hot water. This is not the heating element’s fault - the fact is that the final rinse takes place at 30 degrees, and the clothes cool down. It is much more effective and reliable to conduct a small test:

• Turn on the high-temperature mode on the machine (preferably 60 degrees, but 45-90 is allowed),
• Wait at least 20 minutes (the main thing is not to miss the machine’s transition to the rinsing stage),
• Place your palm on the door glass,
• Assess the degree of its heating (the glass should be warm or hot).

Cold glass will confirm the presence of “temperature problems.” You will have to stop the machine and figure out who is to blame for the lack of heating and what to do to correct the situation. Detailed steps and instructions are given below.

What should I check?

First, you need to figure out why the Atlant machine is not heating up. It is easier with modern machines, since thanks to the built-in self-diagnosis system, they automatically detect a problem, signal an error through a display or indication, stopping the operation of the unit. In other cases, the equipment does not stop washing, but not in hot water, but in cold water, which complicates diagnosis. The situation is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to operate a faulty washing machine - the breakdown gets worse with each cycle.

Several faults can lead to problems with water heating.

• Inoperative pressure switch. If the level sensor is “naughty” and is not able to control the degree of fullness of the tank, it means that the control board does not receive the relevant information and does not give the heating element a command to turn on.
• Damaged wiring. If the contact of the heating element or pressure switch with the board is weakened or broken, the circuit does not close, so the system is unable to transmit a signal about the need for heating.
• Broken heater. The heating element may fail due to a thick layer of scale, improper operation, manufacturing defects, short circuit, or mechanical damage.
• Broken thermistor. A special sensor controls the degree of heating of the heating element. If it breaks, the water stops heating.
• Failed board. The “track” or resistor corresponding to the heating element has burned out.

To restore the machine’s ability to heat up, you will have to conduct a comprehensive diagnosis of all possible “sore spots,” and then make the necessary repairs. Fortunately, the user can solve all “temperature problems” on his own and at home. We will talk more about step-by-step instructions and safety precautions below.

Let us test the heating element.

When there are problems with heating water, the first suspicion always falls on the heating element. This is logical, so it is recommended to start diagnostics with it. To get to the heater, you need to disconnect the washing machine from the power supply and water supply, move it away from the wall and turn the back panel forward. Next, unscrew the screws holding the “back,” remove it and look for the element. It is in the lower part of the body directly under the drum.

Having removed the panel, it is easy to find the round “chip” of the heating element, as well as the thermistor and the wiring connected to them. However, you will first have to remove the drive belt from the pulley to ensure free access to the heater. Afterwards we photograph the location of all connections and proceed to diagnostics:

• disconnect the connected wiring,
• switch the multimeter to the “Resistance” mode and set it to “200 Ohm”,
• We bring the probes to the terminals of the heating element,
• We evaluate the indicators,

A working heating element displays a value of at least 26 Ohms, maximum - 28 Ohms. If the device outputs “1” instead of the norm, then the heater was damaged due to an internal winding break. A result of “0” will indicate a short circuit has occurred. In the extreme two cases, it will not be possible to repair the element - replacement is necessary.

The next step is to check the housing for breakdown. We switch the tester to buzzer mode and apply the probes. If a squeak is heard upon contact, it means that a current leak has been detected - you will have to change the heating element.

The heating element is easy to change. It is enough to dismantle the old device by loosening the central nut and disconnecting the thermistor. Difficulties arise when the existing rubber gasket becomes deformed, increases in size and “blocks” the heater. In this case it is necessary:

• Generously lubricate the cuff with WD-40,
• Wait 15-20 minutes,
• Collect remaining lubricant,
• Swing the heater and pull it out of its seat.

When replacing, it is important to choose the right analogue. The main reference point will be the markings stamped on the heater body. The serial number of your existing Atlanta will also help. It is even better to bring the dismantled heating element to the store and find a replacement on the spot. Before installing a new heater, it is recommended to thoroughly clean the seat from dirt and scale. The machine is assembled according to the instructions described earlier, only in reverse order.

How to check the pressure switch correctly?

If everything is in order with the heating element, then you need to check the pressure switch. It is not difficult to do this yourself: unscrew the bolts holding the cover, move it and find the level sensor. The “water device” is located on the right wall of the housing.

Diagnostics is carried out as follows:

• Disconnect the connected wires from the pressure switch,
• Remove the hose from the tank,
• We find a tube that is proportional to the fitting,
• Attach the tube to the fitting,
• Blow lightly into the tube,
• Evaluate the result (1-3 clicks should be heard).

Next, we inspect the device itself for damage. Then we rinse to eliminate blockages. Lastly, we check the sensor with a multimeter:

• Connect the probes to the contacts,
• We look at the scoreboard (normally the indicators are constantly changing).

Pressure switches are not repaired, as this is time-consuming and unprofitable. It is much easier and cheaper to purchase an original analogue and replace the faulty sensor with it. If the heating element and pressure switch are working properly, then there is a high probability that the control board has failed. Here independence will be harmful - it is better to contact a service center.