Washing machine stuck spinning and won't stop

Washing machine stuck spinning and won't stop

It is clear that if the washing machine does not stop during spinning, then some kind of malfunction has occurred. There may be several reasons, from a banal drum overload to problems with the bearing assembly or electronics. The self-diagnosis system will help a little here - a code will be displayed on the display, indicating a general error - no spin. What exactly happened to the equipment will have to be dealt with on your own. We will tell you what is the best way to start repairing your "home assistant".

How to stop the "enraged" apparatus?

What to do if the automatic machine is stuck on the spin and does not want to stop the drum? Such "frantic" rotation at high speed can lead to overheating of the unit, damage to bearings. Therefore, first of all, you should turn off the washing machine, but how to do this as safely as possible? You need to do this. First press the Start / Pause button. After that, the rotation of the drum should begin to slow down. So, after a few seconds, the "centrifuge" will stop completely.

Of course, such an action is dangerous for the machine, but leaving it for a long time with a rotating drum is no less scary. Therefore, without hesitation, disconnect the device from the power supply.

Why did this malfunction occur?

The washing machine performs many actions in one cycle. First fills the tank by opening the inlet valve. The powder is mixed with water, and the engine starts to spin the drum. After finishing the preliminary wash, the machine drains the waste liquid, refills it, taking the detergent from another compartment of the cuvette.

At the end of the main wash, the dirty water is again drained, and clean water is collected for rinsing. The final stage of the cycle is spinning. This is where our situation fails. The machine, for some reason, cannot work normally, freezing in the process. It will be lucky if a faulty machine displays a system breakdown code on the display, informing the user which node has failed. But it happens that the error is not displayed, and you have to look for the cause of the problem yourself. In such a situation, logic and knowledge of the automatic washing machine will help. To begin with, it is worth excluding common user mistakes that can lead to the impossibility of spinning. Among them:

  1. Overload of the machine;
  2. Washing one, too bulky item;
  3. Insufficient filling of the washing machine;
  4. Selection of a program that does not include spinning;
  5. Foreign object entering the tank. A bone from a bra, an invisibility, a carnation or other little thing can "jam" the centrifuge, preventing the technique from "accelerating" the drum to the desired speed.

When the machine is overloaded with things, the laundry gets knocked into a tight lump, provoking an imbalance in the drum. And when, in such a situation, the "centrifuge" begins to rotate very quickly, a heavy lump may well disrupt the normal operation of the drive mechanism. Therefore, the equipment urgently stops the cycle, freezes, and waits until the excess clothes are removed.

 

A similar situation can arise when few items are loaded into the machine. Modern washing machines easily recognize such a violation by interrupting the spin cycle. It happens that the cause of a malfunction in the washing machine is a foreign body trapped in the space between the tub and drum. In such a situation, it is important to get the little thing as soon as possible, since it can lead not only to a "wedge" of the drum, but also damage the plastic container - the machine will start leaking.

If all of the above reasons are excluded, you will have to start looking for a technical malfunction. To find the "weak point", you will need to partially disassemble the machine. You can do it yourself. We will tell you which knots fail which usually causes the washing machine to hang at the spin stage.

Bearing unit and drive

Most often, problems with drum rotation are due to broken bearings. An automatic machine in such a situation makes a lot of noise and hums during operation, a grinding is heard, and a significant backlash of the "centrifuge" can be observed.

If there is no desire to repair an old machine, it is better to give it to a workshop, or buy a new machine. When unnecessary expenses are not included in the plans, you can repair yourself. Replacing bearings is not an easy process, it will take a lot of time and effort. First, you need to purchase replacement parts. They must match the specific model of the washing machine. Next, it is necessary to almost completely disassemble the washing machine and remove the tank from it.

It is good if your "home assistant" is equipped with a collapsible tank. Then you just need to cut it in half, get access to the drum, knock out the old and press in new bearings, not forgetting to replace the oil seal. The assembly of the machine is carried out in the reverse order.

If the unit is cast, it will take longer to repair. First, the plastic is sawn with a hacksaw along the weld, then the bearings and the oil seal are changed. When connecting the halves, you need to use a moisture-resistant silicone sealant - this will restore the tightness of the tank.

When the bearings are ok but the spin is not running, watch how the clipper works just before hovering. If a subtle whistle is heard, while the drum rotation speed slows down, be sure to inspect the drive belt. When the elastic is stretched, it "slips" on the pulley, because of this, the speed drops. To check the belt, you must:

  1. De-energize the machine;
  2. Turn off the water supply tap;
  3. Remove the top panel of the machine;
  4. Remove the back wall of the case by unscrewing the screws fixing it.

Inspect the drive belt. If it is damaged, replace the rubber band. For this:

  1. Remove the old belt from the pulley;
  2. Pull a new rubber band first on the engine pulley, then on the drum "wheel";
  3. Reassemble the washer body in the reverse order.

Of course, it will be useful to immediately check directly the pulleys, whether they are deformed. Special attention should be paid to the drum "wheel". Even a slight curvature or slight burr will negatively affect the drive belt, leading to wear.

Engine and speed sensor

The next in line to be checked are an electric motor and a tachometer. It often happens that the collector loses power due to worn brushes. A “weakened” engine is not able to accelerate the drum to high revs, so the machine freezes during the spin cycle. To check the brushes of the electric motor, you should:

  1. De-energize the MCA;
  2. Close the shut-off valve responsible for the water supply;
  3. Unhook the top cover of the machine by unscrewing the two bolts holding it;
  4. Remove the back panel of the case;
  5. Throw off the drive belt from the pulleys;
  6. Disconnect the wiring from the engine. Beforehand, it is better to take a picture of the connection diagram of the contacts so as not to get confused during reassembly;
  7. Unscrew a couple of bolts securing the motor;
  8. Remove the engine from the case;
  9. Unscrew the small screws located on the sides of the motor. They hold carbon brushes;
  10. Examine the electric brushes, to understand how worn out they are.

If it's not about worn brushes, run the tach generator diagnostics. The Hall sensor is checked with a multi meter. The tester should be switched to ohmmeter mode and the resistance of the part should be measured. Normally, the device should display a value of about 60 ohms. Then the multi meter is switched to voltage detection mode. When measuring the current at the terminals of the tach generator, you need to scroll the engine with your free hand. The reading on the screen should be approximately 0.2V. The tachometer monitors the engine speed. Having identified a malfunction of the element, it should be replaced. Otherwise, it will not work to avoid problems with spinning.

Electronics board

The most unpleasant thing is if the machine hangs on the spin due to problems with the main control module. The electronic unit is a very complex part, special knowledge and sufficient experience are required to work with it. Therefore, it is better to entrust the repair of the board to a specialist. The service center master, with the help of special equipment, will determine which element of the module has failed, if necessary, replace the semiconductor or solder the tracks. It is not worth going into the "brain" of the machine on your own - you may not help, but even more harm the equipment.

So, if the automatic machine suddenly hung up while wringing out the laundry, do not rush to immediately call the master. Perhaps you just "overdone" with things and exceeded the maximum allowable load weight. Or, conversely, they decided to "drive away" the half-empty washing machine. When it comes to a technical malfunction, try to identify the cause of the breakdown yourself. Even a beginner can replace the engine brushes or install new bearings, provided that the instructions for action are followed.