Washing machine is turned off while washing and won't turn on again

Sometimes the homemakers, having started the cycle after some time, find out that the machine has stopped working without washing the laundry. Attempts to reactivate the technique remain unsuccessful. What should I do if the washing machine turns off during washing and does not turn on? What details to check first?

What happened to technology?

Even to a person who does not know anything about repairing washing equipment, it is clear that the machine does not turn on due to a loss of communication with the electrical network. The washer will not function without a current. Therefore, you will have to pay close attention to all the details responsible for the power of the machine.

1. If the CMA does not turn on, you must check the external electrics and internal conductors. Start your search with the obvious. Look first:
2. Is there electricity in the apartment and directly in the room where the washing machine is located,
3. whether the socket used to connect the automatic machine is working,
4. whether the power cord is damaged or has any defects on its plug.

These are the simplest problems that are fixed easily. However, there may be other, more serious reasons. For example, the machine may not turn on due to damage or sticking of the power button, electronic module breakdown, or noise suppression filter malfunction. To identify the weak spot, you must check these details individually.

Electrical communications

Often the machine does not turn on because there is no electricity in the room. Therefore, click the nearest switch first, and see if the lights work. Also, check the electrical panel - it may knock out plugs.

Sometimes the machine does not turn on due to network overload, especially if the house has low voltage. Therefore, try to de-energize other powerful electrical appliances and restart the washer. However, it is also likely that the RCD has worked, and now, to return the device to life, it will be necessary to eliminate intra-network damage.

Next, you need to inspect the outlet. Check if the plastic case has melted and if there is a burning smell. When the signs are there, the contacts are most likely burned out. If you do not find any visible damage to the eye, try connecting a hair dryer or kettle to the power supply. If the devices work, therefore, everything is normal with the outlet.

The outlet can melt for various reasons. The most common are short circuits, broken contact, and connecting a device that consumes too much power. If you have the skills to work with an electrician, you can replace the outlet. It is better to put devices on a ceramic basis. They are more reliable than plastic ones.

Look at the noise filter.

If there is light in the room, the socket is working. Then the matter is in the automatic machine itself. The test is carried out from simple to complex. First, the mains cable, its plug, and the noise suppression filter are inspected. These parts are interconnected, so they are checked together.

The order of dismantling the elements will be as follows:

1. De-energize the automatic machine,
2. Close the shut-off valve on the water pipe,
3. Move the unit away from the wall to have access to the rear of the case,
4. Unscrew a couple of screws securing the top cover of the machine,
5. Find the noise filter (it is located at the place where the power cord is connected, usually on the left, closer to the back wall),
6. Loosen the clamp that secures the power cord,
7. Remove the noise filter and the cord itself.

Inspect the wire plug for damage. If visually everything is normal, check the cord with a multimeter. First, the device must switch to the resistance measurement mode and connect its probes. If the display shows zero, the tester works and can use for diagnostics.

Then put the multimeter into buzzer mode and ring each wire strand. The device will beep if there is a connection between the tested areas. The silence of the device is a clear sign that the cord is faulty.

What to do when you find a problem? You do not need to repair the wire of the automatic machine with improvised means - twisting or rewinding it with electrical tape. It is much more reliable to buy and connect a new cord. Otherwise, an open or short circuit may soon repeat.

The next in line is the surge protector. The probes of the multimeter operating in the buzzer mode connect to the capacitor contacts. If all is well, the resistance is measured immediately. The device must be changed when the tester's display shows 0 or 1. For replacement, an FPS is purchased, completely similar to the removed one.